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Grading
the symmetry of round brilliant cut diamonds in Russia
In Russia, there are certain specifications used both to cut diamonds
and to grade them. These specs have been developed at «Kristall»
factory (Smolensk) and are referred to as TU 117-4.2099-2002 (Diamonds,
2002). According to these specs, the cut quality of a round brilliant
cut diamond can be graded as «A», «B», «V», or «G» (the «°» grade
is the best). A stone whose cut quality does not fit even the «G»
level is considered as not compliant with the specifications. The
specs contain the tolerances for cut parameters of «°»- and «B»-graded
diamonds and the requirements whose violation should be treated
as asymmetry. For the «°» group, the allowable error in the girdle
roundness is 0.06 mm for stones with a diameter less than 3.00 mm,
2% of the diameter for stones with a diameter from 3.00 to 5.00
mm, and 0.10 mm for stones with a diameter exceeding 5.00 mm. For
the «B» group, this error is 0.08 mm for stones with a diameter
less than 3.00 mm, 2.5% of the diameter for stones with a diameter
from 3.00 to 5.00 mm, and 0.13 mm for stones with a diameter exceeding
5.00 mm. For the «°» group, the displacements of the culet and table
center with respect to the diamond axis must not exceed: 2% of the
stone diameter for a diamond with a weight less than 0.30 ct, 1.5%
of the stone diameter for a diamond with a weight from 0.30 to 0.99
ct, and 0.5% of the stone diameter for a diamond with a weight exceeding
1 ct. For both groups «A» and «B», the allowable irregularity of
the girdle thickness (the difference between the maximum and minimum
values of its local thickness) is 25%, and for those diamonds heavier
than 1 ct the girdle must be visually uniform along the whole perimeter.
The upper facets should be above the lower ones. For diamonds whose
weight is less than 1 ct, the allowable displacement of upper edges
and nodes with respect to lower ones is: 10% of the base of an upper
girdle facet or crown facet for the «A» group and 20% of that figure
for the «B» group. When an «A»- or «B»-graded diamond whose weight
exceeds 1 ct is viewed through a 10x loupe, all its upper cut elements
must be visually symmetrical to the corresponding lower cut elements.
The difference in the tilt angles of both upper and lower facets
with respect to the girdle plane, measured for a single diamond,
cannot exceed: 1° for the «A» group, 2° for «B», 3° for «V», and
3° for «G». There are also some requirements for additional facets.
After a diamond is cut, it is passed to the quality control department,
members of which, guided by the specifications, may claim: non-roundness
(code 06), over- or undercut (code 11), top-to-bottom displacement
(code 16), table displacement (code 17), girdle displacement (code
19), crooked girdle (code 23), and some more flaws.
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